Trimming Greens in Sapporo
by Kirk Rivers
Through the frost-rimmed window of a Sapporo ramen shop, a vendor’s gloved hand grips a pair of tailor shears to trim excess green onion from a steaming bowl, the metal glinting under harsh fluorescent kitchen lights. Outside, a pedestrian in a thick wool scarf pauses, breath pluming in the cold noon air, while their reflection merges with the condensation on the glass. Inside, the counter shows tile grout darkened by years of spilled broth and steam, against the clean white ceramic bowls. A glass pitcher of water sits near the register, its surface beaded with cold moisture. The precise, hurried rhythm of winter service, where practical tools and thick clothing signal the season’s bite.
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