Salaryman Dining in Sapporo
by Jorge Lane
Late afternoon light spills through the tall glass windows of a narrow Sapporo izakaya, illuminating a crowded wooden counter where a salaryman in a rumpled suit rests a ceramic sake cup beside a half-eaten plate of grilled squid. The warm glow catches the steam rising from a small iron grill set into the table, revealing thin scratches and char marks on the varnished wood that speak of years of service.
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